Home Again, Home Again, Diggity Dig

Heading home is always a bitter-sweet moment. Six weeks on the road is long time to sleep in a foreign bed but the experience in being in a place we love is a gift It is always a good sign that we are already talking about our return trip next year. Since our time in 2025 is limited we are planning to return to the Dordogne for four weeks, hopefully the same place. Having the time and place already worked out means that the logistics is limited to booking flights and car rental. Simplification is an important bonus.

Packing is much simpler when all we need to do is make sure all our stuff makes it from the house to the car, the bags are within the weight limits, and boxing the bikes so they survive the return flight

The long drive to our hotel at the Toulouse airport is all on super highways once we navigate from Sablet to Orange on now familiar country roads. After a brief coffee stop at one of the fabulous rest stops (why can't these be duplicated in the US?) for a fresh pastry and coffee once a helpful lady was able to help us navigate the coffee machine. 

Since today's goal was simply getting to the airport for tomorrow's flight we decided on a casual lunch in the ancient Roman town of Carcassonne. Even the intermittent rain did not discourage us from making this stop. Kim's dining request was for Greek food so we parked in the area and navigated by foot to this Taverna about the size of a walk in closet. The owner was this happy go lucky 30 something who appeared to enjoy his one man operation with zeal.  

We were hoping for a traditional Gyro but pleasantly surprised by this Greek-like concoction buried inside a fabulous French bread, our last until next year. With an ample portion of frites our meal was complete with enough to "carry out" for tonight's dinner at the hotel. 

Kim's was a little different but still more than satisfying. Sorry we did not take a group photo with the owner but we were on the road again before we realized the missed opportunty. 

This was the first time we returned the car to Toulouse but glad that our GPS knew the way. Before you drive away after pickup the customer service person programs the return address into the GPS. Finding our way here the old fashioned way would have been a tense and frustrating experience. Once there we drove into the hotel parking garage and were able to unload and head to the checkin desk sans transport van. There is beauty in simplicity. This will be our modus operandi for future trips. 

We were able to roll the baggage carts into the lobby storage room and out again the next morning for our ungodly early flight to Frankfurt 

After a few relaxing hours in the Frankfort airport lounge we were on our way to Denver for a rather short 9 1/2 flight to Denver. Two movies (Casablanca and Grease) later and a short nap we landed at DIA with us and air tag laden bags having safely arrived,

After claiming our bags I fetched the car and picked them up and Kim for our drive back to Vail. Since it was still early in the day the traffic was light and we were conscious enough to make the drive home with the help of a caffeine pill. Some traditions are hard to break so we made our annual stop at KFC for a simple dinner before crashing for the night. 

To recap our trip we were able to complete 27 rides covering almost 800 miles in spite of the weather related cancellations, transfer day, and several outings with our French friends. I am also happy to report that we rode all those miles without a roadside puncture or at home tube replacement for potential flat inducing slow leak. Besides the one headlight failure Kim wore out a set of rear brake pads (although they were recently installed). We were able to get replacements after a Sunday drive to Bedoin to the only open bike shop. This allowed us to take are steep and windy up and over tour from Bedoin to Malaucene on a road that we would not consider on bikes.  My repair skills made the installation quick and easy. Glad it was not a more complicated repair like previous trips that required a trip to the bike shop. We were on the road again the next morning. 

Well this ends the blog for 2024 with the next addition appearing in September 2025. Stay tumed. 

Last Ride

 Today is our last ride, and wecdecided to repeat the tour de winery route. The 30+ miles will not get us to our goal of 800 total miles for the trip but darn close. The weather was almost raining and spitting from the start. Ditching the ride after a few miles was a consideration but we were determined to end on a high note - so we pressed on.

After a quick stop for a baguette a the local market we were on our way. Although we would avoid the climb to the winery the ascent total would still be almost 2000 feet. The grades were reasonable so it will be a near perfect outing.  

Our destination was Tullete but the weather was not conducive for outdoor dining so we stopped at Jules for their larger cup of coffee and signature pastry. With half the miles behind us we headed out.

We summited at the highest point before heading down. 

Due to the changing weather it was a pants on, pants off, jackets on, jackets off kind of day. Never saw the sun but was just happy that the heavy sprinkles did not turn into actual rain. So much for the chance of precipitation near zero.  

Approaching Carraine and turn to the east toward Rasteau.

The winery was up the hill which we circumnavigated along the main road. Much smoother and more forgiving than the climb up and over.

We arrived home in time for lunch and started the afternoon chore of dismantling and packing the bikes. Considering that this is the twelve time we have been through this ritual we are quite skilled at getting this done quickly. 

Packing to return home is a simpler task since everything here that is ours, goes.  

Climbs Suzette - A French Specialty

Today we decided to do a reprise of the reverse Malaucene ride (counter clockwise) with a twist. The earlier ride circumnavigated the hills to the west but feeling triumphant we plotted the deviation to Suzette, a hilltop town up and over a long winding climb up to the town and beyond. 

The day was looking a little iffy with a thick mist, overcast skies, and very damp surface. After a short delay we decided to head out believing that no rain was in our future. As we left the house it was spitting a bit but no serious drops to soak us and force us to turn back. Actually the horizon was looking promising so we pushed on. 

As we passed through the "V" town it was time for a bread stop, and to be extra precautious purchased two seeded baguettes in case we needed a "bread break" along the way and one in reserve in case we bailed on lunch out.  

Once we started up we knew this was a serious climb. Part way we shed clothes as we were soaking from within. 

With only 3 KM to go we figured we were golden with the additional KMs to Malaucene a cruise. 

After congratulating ourselves with the KOM (King of the Mountain) and QOM (Queen of the Mountain) trophies we were shocked back into reality by two guys who spoke enough English (actually they were fluent) that the best (or worse) was yet to come. More serious climbing ahead before cresting for the Malaucene downhill cruise. Seeing our age and absence of e-power they recommended that we take another route to the Castle town of Barroux which we had visited on our last "Tour De Malaucene" This took us mostly down a C road which was narrow, quiet, and well paved. "C" roads are a notch below "D" roads and are usually a scenic improvement as long as we can avoid double digit grades and broken and gravel laden pavement.  

Heading toward Barroux was a smart choice and sorry we could not thank our pathfinders for the recommendation. 

Before finding the coffee stop we meandered around the castle ruins which were quite impressive.  

The place was fairly busy since it was a Sunday and the church bells were sounding the call to prayer. 

On our last visit this place was closed which would have been a bummer - but Voila the place was open. So after a bread starter we polished off the pastry with an unusually large cup of coffee. With only about 11 miles back home and no serious uphills ahead we savored the goodies and appreciated the rest. 

The rest of the way home was over familiar territory which we continue to enjoy, although a bit sad the it is unlikely that we will be this way again. The lesson learned is that resisting an upgrade to e-bikes strokes our pride but realizing that we have avoided many beautiful alternatives. So who knows where our heads will be on future trips to France. 

 

Return to Bedoin

 

Domaine Des Girasols

 Yesterday we made a quick trip to the market in Vaison. This would be our last food run that will tie us over for the remainder of our stay in Provence. Waiting on the checkout line we were conversing when this young gentleman in front of us asked if we were American. Not sure what was the give away but we home in on english speakers among the din of French. We started to chat and found out that he divided his time between the US and France and was currently working at a winery started by his grandparents fifty years ago. We exchanged information along with the location of his winery, Since it was along our planned flat vineyard ride for tomorrow he suggested that we stop by for a tasting. Not our normal routine but worth consideration. 

Lavender is a common crop in Provence so this field that was past its prime was worth a photo. Unfortunately the lavender colored fields reach their peak earlier in the fall. 

No self respecting wine region will always have a symbol advertising their wares in the hopes of drawing tourists in for a tasting and purchase. 

This was the first sign we saw of Julian's winery so we knew we were on the right track. It sits on a knowl with a steep climb up to the winery. 

We parked our bikes and Julian showed us to the tasting room. 

A bottle of one of their premium offerings. 

Julian insisted on pouring a few of his favorite picks. With more than a handful of miles back home Kim has a sip of each but had enough restraint to insure a safe ride back. 

Julian gave us his origin story which started with his mother who was born in Resteau but sent to the California wine country to expand her wine making education before taking over the reign of the family business. While working for Joseph Phelps in Napa she met Julian's father who was also learning the wine business from the bottom up. After marrying they moved back to Provence where Julian and his younger sister were born. They returned to California where Julian went to high school and perfected his English. Later on he returned to the winery to run the manual operations while his parents continued to handle the business end. Although Julian spends most of his time in France he continues to visit the states to connect with friends and spend time with his sister who is a sommelier in the New York area. 

Fortunately the last few miles were negotiated without incident ending a very interesting and rewarding day. Having exchanged contact information we invited Julian to stop by Vail on one of his trips to the states. He is a skier but has to schedule his time away when the call of harvesting and pruning it not all consuming.  

The Day After - Rain and Wind

After the 50+ MPH winds the Ventoux took a rest making way for torrential overnight rains. We decided to head south with the wind at our backs and take a leisurely jaunt along the cycleway (aka old rail bed). For a change of pace we headed off the main road along this paved detour. Not a great idea since the accumulated rainfall made for some mucky going.

There was enough pavement along the edge to avoid wading but not without some muddy sections. The man walking along was not following us but we managed to pass each other several times when we stopped to shed clothing as the temperatures rose.

While I straddled my bike (could not find a spot to dismount) she decided to walk along with her wheels in the water so her feet could stay dry. We shoes does not make for a pleasant ride. 

Once we joined the bike path we had so decide to head toward Orange or Carpentras. A gent was able to explain that the path was paved in both directions but we opted to head toward Carpentras.

We ducked off the path for a few kilometers to a town center to find a coffee spot. Fortunately Kim snagged the goodies back in the "V" town so two coffees later we were on our way back to the path to continue raking up the miles. Hoping to cover 30+ miles today we kept going toward Orange before the required turnaround point based on our quick calculation. 

Amazing how dry creek beds come alive after a night of intense rain. 

The route back was north and heading straight into the winds. Fortunately the climbs were minimal so severe exhaustion did not set in. We passed this sign where "Les Cabanons" provided housing for the migrant farm workers in a time long forgotten. 

With our riding day behind us we decided to make a quick trip to the market to get all the food we will tie us over until we leave Provence next Tuesday. Fortunately this market has a wonderful bakery department where Kim could not resist these delicacies. Sufficient counterpoint to the dinner basics needed to get us through. 

 

Sun, Warmth, and WIND, WIND, WIND!

Even for these intrepid cyclists there are limits to riding in adverse conditions. With winds gusting to 50+ MPH we decided that "no riding" was the safest bet. Often when passing a line of trees or buildings the wind goes from tolerable to insane, especially a crosswind which can knock you off the bike or push you into the driving lane and oncoming or passing traffic. 

After spending most of the day inside we needed some exercise so we opted for a walk into Sablet and up to the top of the hill - all hilltop towns have one. 

A stroll around the gardens and 

past the church. Every town has at least one of these too.

The clock and bell tower. 

Fortunately the wind became more manageable for the next day's ride. Today we decided on the Malaucene ride but in a reverse counter clockwise direction. To add to the challenge we decided to conquer Barroux which was a quieter but steeper route. 

We were hoping to make this our coffee stop but stymied since the only cafe was closed. Will try again on another day.  

The chateau was too much of a climb so we settled for a long distance photo. 

A better shot from a different angle which will have to suffice. 

Since the ride was a repeat of a previous ride there was no reason to take duplicate photos but this was one that we screamed by the last time. We think it was a man and a woman but it is anybody's guess. 

We arrived back in Sablet at lunch time. Our intention was to try the restaurant in Seguret but bailed not wanting to scale the killer hill to the chateau. We figured a burger is a burger, frites are frites, and felt compelled to support the local businesses. 

The Route Less Traveled

Due to the forecasted higher than desirable winds we plotted a route through the vineyards to the west. We started with a flatter course to Vaison avoiding the killer climbs of past rides. 

Cycling is big in France and host to the granddaddy of the racing circuit - Tour de France. Like everywhere they start them young as this "happy camper" demonstrated. He is beaming with his colorful helmet as he headed into centre ville with mom. 

This town is a popular destination for tourists and locals featuring lots to look at, including this sculpture at the entrance of the local park.

Kim couldn't resist taking a photo of this medallion decorating one of the many ancient stone walls surrounding the city. 

Bike leaning on a tree, which is an appropriate title of this photo. Not much else to say.

We got to explore many towns we bypassed on earlier rides. Buisson looks like a good destination for a coffee stop, and of course it sits on the top of a hill. Who could imagine why they would build up there?

The town appeared to be deserted but discovered that they were serving in the square outside the walled fortress. Nothing special except for the first palmier on this trip. Not sure why we haven't seen them before but a good find. The other pastry was not bad either. Got to love the Patisserie in Vaison La Romaine. 

Stone walls appear formidable especially for attacking armies a millennium ago. Seems quaint by modern standards but daunting if all you have are swords and arrows.  

Cycling around towns is preferable to the more strenuous up and over approach. Seeing from afar was sufficient repeating our common refrain - "We have been to a town"

There goes Alan screaming past this town sign after having missed a critical turn which added too many unnecessary miles to our 30+ mile ride. Following the route on my biking computer is not always easy so missed turns happen way too often. I have revised this route should we decide to do it again.