Late Start But Great Ride

 Today was the chilliest morning yet which meant a much later start time. The fog has to burn off since the hills did not come until later in the ride. Tough to stay warm in the flats even without any wind since cruising along at 12-15 miles per hour really impacts the wind chill factor. 

We headed across the river, past La Roque, then back to our side again a Vitrac. Opting for the longer shallower grade up to Domme was a good choice even though we covered the same climbing in twice the distance.  

Domme was our first destination although we road around the ramparts and along the plateau for several miles. 

There is an airstrip up there. We heard and saw several Cessna planes on final but missed the military jets that often buzz our place in Castlenaud. 

Our French is a bit sketchy but surmised that photographs are prohibited. Not much of a deterrence for Kim and it did not say you could not photograph the do not photograph sign. 

This shot was probably a "no no" with all the tracking antennas in the distance. We have been reading a detective series chronicling Bruno the Chief of Police in a small village in the Périgord. One book uses the military operations in the Domme area as a back for the story. Guess it is a real thing. 

About half way we rolled into a town where we thought we could find a Cafe and Boulangerie. First stop was to get a fresh pastry even though we brought one along the ride that Kim bought that morning. 

They were too good to pass up so the one we brought will be demoted to our evening pastry. 

A short walk across the parking lot get us to a lovely restaurant where coffee was available and sun drenched patio overlooking the entire valley. Great spot. 

This place was a real find so hopefully we will pass this way again before we leave the area. 

Since our route ran through Bouzic we knew we on course. 

Yup, can't go wrong on the  D52. The roads in this area wind up and around the fields and tree lined way. 

A old style road marker confirmed that we were where we thought we were, and glad to be here. The rest of the ride was along our well worn path home so we just ground out the last ten miles to end our ride at about 28 miles and 1400 feet of climbing. Enough to warrant a serious nap and plenty of time to do the laundry. 

Brisk, Bright, and Beautiful Ride

The lower morning temperatures and low lying fog dampened our enthusiasm for an early start. Even with some moderate climbs as the start of the ride we needed to wait until reaching our comfort zone.  

Kim journeyed down the hill to get our daily bread and coffee stop pastry. The calm winds, clear skies, and cold temperatures allowed the balloon rides to start again. We have a similar photo from last year but these flew over our local town. FYI: The Montgolfier brothers were two local Frenchmen who were the first to fly a hot air balloon here in 1783.

Castles to the left of us...

Castles to the right of us...

 

Once the home of the American singer and performer Josephine Baker in the early 1900's. 

A quick bread break once the climbing was behind us. 

There is no local trash pickup so everyone has to haul their stuff to one of these depots where they sort the glass from the paper, from the cardboard, from the smelly rest of the stuff. They take recycling seriously which Kim finds fascinating, although we have given up on this conservation exercise back home. 

After lamenting over the dying sunflower field the other day we were rewarded with a these thriving remnants. 

 

A Glorious Day of Climbing, Descending, and Conversation.

 A few rides back we were cruising the cliffside town of La Roque nestled between the cliff and Dordogne river. It is a very popular tourist destination as the crowds and cars reflect. Part way through town I passed an outside cafe patio with two viper red Trek Domane bikes leaning against the wall. Since they are of a similar vintage as our bikes I stopped to admire them and casually blurted out "nice bikes" in English. To my surprise the dining couple responded in British English so a conversation was born. My interest started with whether they were familiar with the local rides but evolved into the fact that they divide their time between Bristol, England and the hilltop village of Domme, a few kilometers up river. 

After a few minutes of conversing across the garden wall Kim caught up and pulled out our map to get some cycling suggestions. We exchanged some of our "origin stories" and contact information and an invite to see their house nestled into the ramparts of this ancient fortress. Domme started life as a strategic fortress and castle dating back to the crusades then evolved into a quaint French village when the locals dismantled the castle and repurposed the stones into houses, shops, and compulsory houses of worship (aka churches).

Our new friends Ali (short for Alison) and Rob (short for Rob) suggested that we come by for a house tour and local lunch on Thursday since they were returning to England on Saturday. We decided to combine a ride terminating with a long climb up to Domme. For those who follow "The Amazing Race" the esplanade overlooking the valley referred to as the "Panorama" was a pit stop on a recent season. 

This banner caught our eye which was at the entrance to a camping area call the frog something.

We decided that on this return visit we would stop for our coffee and pastry before tackling the up and over route over the intervening hill climb (or as Ali refers to them as lumpy sections). 

Kim could not resist a photo of this purple mail box...

and similarly colored flower. 

Ali also mentioned that we should make a quick stop to look at this ancient stone church.

The road "up and over" acknowledged as a biking route did not mention the steep grades (14%+), rugged pavement, moss covered sections, and brake gripping downhills. Once on the other side the pavement was more civilized although still quiet, tree lined, and mostly devoid of cars. The worst was behind us...

So on to the climb to Domme which was 8% for the first half and a measly 5% to the top.

Kim was first to reach the summit and through the remnants of the fortress gates. 

A quick turn past the rampart and we arrived at the Jones getaway. 

Ali has been visiting this area since childhood staying in Castelnaud. When they decided on a Dordogne retreat they insisted on a view, and what a view it is. The house is old but the pool and surrounding gardens are their creations. 

A selfie captured the group...

and photo of Ali showing off the view. 

Lunch was at a favorite restaurant "around the corner" with some of our favorite French delights. Rob had a beer or two but we stuck with mineral water knowing that we still has more than five miles back home. 

This is the oldest building in the remade town (much nicer than the medieval castle). Besides the surviving fortress walls are the dungeon where the "nights templar" (see The Da Vinci Code for more details) were imprisoned upon their return from the crusades.

Out the gates, down the hill, and an easy ride home.

This sign in their house reflects our sentiments. What a great day with our new found friends! Already planning our return visit next year, but maybe on our new e-bikes.