Home Again, Home Again, Diggity Dig

Heading home is always a bitter-sweet moment. Six weeks on the road is long time to sleep in a foreign bed but the experience in being in a place we love is a gift It is always a good sign that we are already talking about our return trip next year. Since our time in 2025 is limited we are planning to return to the Dordogne for four weeks, hopefully the same place. Having the time and place already worked out means that the logistics is limited to booking flights and car rental. Simplification is an important bonus.

Packing is much simpler when all we need to do is make sure all our stuff makes it from the house to the car, the bags are within the weight limits, and boxing the bikes so they survive the return flight

The long drive to our hotel at the Toulouse airport is all on super highways once we navigate from Sablet to Orange on now familiar country roads. After a brief coffee stop at one of the fabulous rest stops (why can't these be duplicated in the US?) for a fresh pastry and coffee once a helpful lady was able to help us navigate the coffee machine. 

Since today's goal was simply getting to the airport for tomorrow's flight we decided on a casual lunch in the ancient Roman town of Carcassonne. Even the intermittent rain did not discourage us from making this stop. Kim's dining request was for Greek food so we parked in the area and navigated by foot to this Taverna about the size of a walk in closet. The owner was this happy go lucky 30 something who appeared to enjoy his one man operation with zeal.  

We were hoping for a traditional Gyro but pleasantly surprised by this Greek-like concoction buried inside a fabulous French bread, our last until next year. With an ample portion of frites our meal was complete with enough to "carry out" for tonight's dinner at the hotel. 

Kim's was a little different but still more than satisfying. Sorry we did not take a group photo with the owner but we were on the road again before we realized the missed opportunty. 

This was the first time we returned the car to Toulouse but glad that our GPS knew the way. Before you drive away after pickup the customer service person programs the return address into the GPS. Finding our way here the old fashioned way would have been a tense and frustrating experience. Once there we drove into the hotel parking garage and were able to unload and head to the checkin desk sans transport van. There is beauty in simplicity. This will be our modus operandi for future trips. 

We were able to roll the baggage carts into the lobby storage room and out again the next morning for our ungodly early flight to Frankfurt 

After a few relaxing hours in the Frankfort airport lounge we were on our way to Denver for a rather short 9 1/2 flight to Denver. Two movies (Casablanca and Grease) later and a short nap we landed at DIA with us and air tag laden bags having safely arrived,

After claiming our bags I fetched the car and picked them up and Kim for our drive back to Vail. Since it was still early in the day the traffic was light and we were conscious enough to make the drive home with the help of a caffeine pill. Some traditions are hard to break so we made our annual stop at KFC for a simple dinner before crashing for the night. 

To recap our trip we were able to complete 27 rides covering almost 800 miles in spite of the weather related cancellations, transfer day, and several outings with our French friends. I am also happy to report that we rode all those miles without a roadside puncture or at home tube replacement for potential flat inducing slow leak. Besides the one headlight failure Kim wore out a set of rear brake pads (although they were recently installed). We were able to get replacements after a Sunday drive to Bedoin to the only open bike shop. This allowed us to take are steep and windy up and over tour from Bedoin to Malaucene on a road that we would not consider on bikes.  My repair skills made the installation quick and easy. Glad it was not a more complicated repair like previous trips that required a trip to the bike shop. We were on the road again the next morning. 

Well this ends the blog for 2024 with the next addition appearing in September 2025. Stay tumed. 

Last Ride

 Today is our last ride, and wecdecided to repeat the tour de winery route. The 30+ miles will not get us to our goal of 800 total miles for the trip but darn close. The weather was almost raining and spitting from the start. Ditching the ride after a few miles was a consideration but we were determined to end on a high note - so we pressed on.

After a quick stop for a baguette a the local market we were on our way. Although we would avoid the climb to the winery the ascent total would still be almost 2000 feet. The grades were reasonable so it will be a near perfect outing.  

Our destination was Tullete but the weather was not conducive for outdoor dining so we stopped at Jules for their larger cup of coffee and signature pastry. With half the miles behind us we headed out.

We summited at the highest point before heading down. 

Due to the changing weather it was a pants on, pants off, jackets on, jackets off kind of day. Never saw the sun but was just happy that the heavy sprinkles did not turn into actual rain. So much for the chance of precipitation near zero.  

Approaching Carraine and turn to the east toward Rasteau.

The winery was up the hill which we circumnavigated along the main road. Much smoother and more forgiving than the climb up and over.

We arrived home in time for lunch and started the afternoon chore of dismantling and packing the bikes. Considering that this is the twelve time we have been through this ritual we are quite skilled at getting this done quickly. 

Packing to return home is a simpler task since everything here that is ours, goes.  

Climbs Suzette - A French Specialty

Today we decided to do a reprise of the reverse Malaucene ride (counter clockwise) with a twist. The earlier ride circumnavigated the hills to the west but feeling triumphant we plotted the deviation to Suzette, a hilltop town up and over a long winding climb up to the town and beyond. 

The day was looking a little iffy with a thick mist, overcast skies, and very damp surface. After a short delay we decided to head out believing that no rain was in our future. As we left the house it was spitting a bit but no serious drops to soak us and force us to turn back. Actually the horizon was looking promising so we pushed on. 

As we passed through the "V" town it was time for a bread stop, and to be extra precautious purchased two seeded baguettes in case we needed a "bread break" along the way and one in reserve in case we bailed on lunch out.  

Once we started up we knew this was a serious climb. Part way we shed clothes as we were soaking from within. 

With only 3 KM to go we figured we were golden with the additional KMs to Malaucene a cruise. 

After congratulating ourselves with the KOM (King of the Mountain) and QOM (Queen of the Mountain) trophies we were shocked back into reality by two guys who spoke enough English (actually they were fluent) that the best (or worse) was yet to come. More serious climbing ahead before cresting for the Malaucene downhill cruise. Seeing our age and absence of e-power they recommended that we take another route to the Castle town of Barroux which we had visited on our last "Tour De Malaucene" This took us mostly down a C road which was narrow, quiet, and well paved. "C" roads are a notch below "D" roads and are usually a scenic improvement as long as we can avoid double digit grades and broken and gravel laden pavement.  

Heading toward Barroux was a smart choice and sorry we could not thank our pathfinders for the recommendation. 

Before finding the coffee stop we meandered around the castle ruins which were quite impressive.  

The place was fairly busy since it was a Sunday and the church bells were sounding the call to prayer. 

On our last visit this place was closed which would have been a bummer - but Voila the place was open. So after a bread starter we polished off the pastry with an unusually large cup of coffee. With only about 11 miles back home and no serious uphills ahead we savored the goodies and appreciated the rest. 

The rest of the way home was over familiar territory which we continue to enjoy, although a bit sad the it is unlikely that we will be this way again. The lesson learned is that resisting an upgrade to e-bikes strokes our pride but realizing that we have avoided many beautiful alternatives. So who knows where our heads will be on future trips to France.