Killer Climb and Relaxing Lunch

 

Our morning ritual is to check on the many (six +) balloons floating by the window - going up, going down to the river, and floating along as fast or slow as the wind will take them. They only have two controls - up or down and the wind does the rest. 

We decided that we will end the ride with a relaxing lunch near the end of the route. Seems that shorter rides are more challenging as we try to trim mileage with shortcuts up and over killer climbs. 

A common sight is massive stacks of logs near the side of the road, sitting out there while the wood air dries. Unsure where they cut and haul these trees from but obviously at a convenient location to take them to their final destination. 

We have been t his way before and knew what was up ahead. 

Before conquering the 16.4% grade waiting for us at the next turn we knew that shedding close was a must even on this chilly morning.

When the hill was no match for pedal power we slogged our way to the first crest. It is hard to believe that the folks living on the farm at the top do this climb every day, maybe multiple times. We are in good shape but they must be super human. 

Flowers are always worth a photo and great opportunity to stop and catch our breath. 

After descending from "on high" and down the frightning 16.3% down grade we earned a coffee and bread break along the river in La Roque. 

The "S.S. Tourist Trap" offers leisurely rides up and down the river. Not sure how far you can cruise but have not seen any rapids or dams to slow the progress. An interesting fact about the Dordogne is that there is no canal with locks to navigate up or down river. This is unusual for most French rivers of this size. Turns out that eons ago they transported goods downriver by boats and cut them up for fire wood instead of hauling the boats back up for another run. My guess is that there was little commerce to justify the construction of a canal. 

Our lunch spot was less than two miles from home in a lovely orchard, expansive seating area, pleasant music, and enough sun to keep us warm. 

We shared the only two items on the menu - a flatbread with veggies, and boneless pork cutlet. More than enough for a lunch but might come back for an evening meal which features Spanish Tapas selections. 

Short Ride Before Lovely Dinner

Another shorter ride today to insure that we got back in time for a shower and serious nap in preparation for a lavish dinner with Natasha and Tony. They picked the restaurant and sealed the deal when they volunteered to do the night driving. 

This balloon watching is habit forming. 

Balloon viewing from the warmth of our place rather than the frigid basket hanging in the breeze. Even with the intermittent blasts firing the balloons hot air it must be unpleasantly cold up there.  

Never have taken flight in a balloon since my fear of heights would make for an uncomfortable experience. Piloting a small airplane does not generate the same sensations as standing in the open overlooking the ground far below. 

Today's ride included some steep climbs but rewarded by the expansive valleys below. 

A sunny table on the bridge next to the Tabac is a perfect coffee stop. 

I think we will have to make another visit to this town. 

Kim was infatuated by this burned out house that warranted a photo. 

Since stone does not burn the remnants provide an opportunity for someone else to come along and rebuild the place. Not on our "to do" list at this stage in life but might have been enticing at an earlier time in our lives. 

Cruising through Daglan on the final leg home we happened upon the Sunday market where Kim bought a tomato for her lunch sandwich. How convenient! Plenty of people milling around and a group of men enjoying their "breakfast" wines and other libations. Actually it was noon when we arrived and surely 5 o'clock somewhere on the planet. 

We took the road less traveled (aka cycling path) for the last mile or two. It winds along the stream and much quieter than the main road with whizzing Sunday travelers. Of course you have to avoid the kids on trikes and their parents chatting on their mobile phones.

You know we are home when our castle appears in the distance. 

We rested up in the afternoon awaiting our dinner with Natasha and Tony scheduled for 7 PM (1900 by local time). They picked the restaurant, which is one of their favorites, because of the sentimental memories is has. The property is a former family owned castle which goes back to the 16th century. It had a modern makeover by the current owners which resulted in a hotel, restaurant, and pool on this expansive property. 

The restaurant is a focal point for Monrecour resort. 

We opted for an indoor table since the sun was setting at this late hour. They often come at the height of summer for a peaceful dinner on the patio. 

Since I was not driving I opted for a G & T (gin and tonic) made by a local distillery and Fever Tree tonic (the champagne of tonics). So no it was not Hendrick's gin but in a Hendrick's glass which was close at hand. Didn't seem to diminish the intoxicating effects of the contents. 

We were the first diners but the tables filled quickly as the late arrivals appeared. 

The rest of the party indulged in a locally produced wine with a French name. Assume it was enjoyed by all since they emptied the bottle with little effort. 

Lavish meal started with a veal tartare 

Followed by the Monk fish for Natasha and me

and sweetbreads for Kim, one of the best she has ever had. 

Tony has the beef which rounded out our selections. 

Making for a very happy group of diners.

They shared their desert 

as Kim inhaled our Tiramisu (a specialty from across the Italian border) and I was satisfied with the chocolate decoration on the top.  

Natasha insisted on a tour of the hotel building with a salon surrounded by amazing wood carved walls 

and masterpiece door of carved wood. They are hoping to find someone to duplicate this door for the entrance to their soon to be finished house. First they need to install all the windows which were omitted from the unfinished structure. 

It was a sumptuous dinner and extended evening sharing stories with our new friends. Already planning our return visit next year if for no other reason than to continue to expand our social network. 

Late Start But Great Ride

 Today was the chilliest morning yet which meant a much later start time. The fog has to burn off since the hills did not come until later in the ride. Tough to stay warm in the flats even without any wind since cruising along at 12-15 miles per hour really impacts the wind chill factor. 

We headed across the river, past La Roque, then back to our side again a Vitrac. Opting for the longer shallower grade up to Domme was a good choice even though we covered the same climbing in twice the distance.  

Domme was our first destination although we road around the ramparts and along the plateau for several miles. 

There is an airstrip up there. We heard and saw several Cessna planes on final but missed the military jets that often buzz our place in Castlenaud. 

Our French is a bit sketchy but surmised that photographs are prohibited. Not much of a deterrence for Kim and it did not say you could not photograph the do not photograph sign. 

This shot was probably a "no no" with all the tracking antennas in the distance. We have been reading a detective series chronicling Bruno the Chief of Police in a small village in the Périgord. One book uses the military operations in the Domme area as a back for the story. Guess it is a real thing. 

About half way we rolled into a town where we thought we could find a Cafe and Boulangerie. First stop was to get a fresh pastry even though we brought one along the ride that Kim bought that morning. 

They were too good to pass up so the one we brought will be demoted to our evening pastry. 

A short walk across the parking lot get us to a lovely restaurant where coffee was available and sun drenched patio overlooking the entire valley. Great spot. 

This place was a real find so hopefully we will pass this way again before we leave the area. 

Since our route ran through Bouzic we knew we on course. 

Yup, can't go wrong on the  D52. The roads in this area wind up and around the fields and tree lined way. 

A old style road marker confirmed that we were where we thought we were, and glad to be here. The rest of the ride was along our well worn path home so we just ground out the last ten miles to end our ride at about 28 miles and 1400 feet of climbing. Enough to warrant a serious nap and plenty of time to do the laundry.