To Market, To Market, To Buy A ???

 After six days of riding we decided to take the day off and do a "drive about". Our first destination was the city of Orange. Thursday is market day which was an incentive to make this pick. 

It should not be a surprise to know that the Romans were here. They did get around in this area and fulfilled their compulsion to build baby build. 

They left behind this coliseum style structure which is closer to an amphitheater than fighting arena. It still operates as an open air theater but was not open for a tour of the interior. 

It is vital that when you go to market you have a mission. As in past visits Kim wanted to purchase some lightweight scarves which are inexpensive and easy to pack for the trip back home. Of course this expansive market space covering the interior of the town offered the traditional variety of food, and inedible fare seem at most flea markets in the states.  

Besides needing a day off from riding the wind was predicted to be howling - and it did not disappoint. We were able to find a partly sunny spot that was well protected to partake in our morning ritual. Notice the warmer jacket which was needed on this chilly windy day. 

The morning pastry was a winner. Flakey dough combined with an excessive amount of chocolate. Of course it was preceded by hunk of bread as an starter.  

Having OD'd on the market and way too early for lunch we decided to move along to another bastion of Roman ruins - Vaison La Romaine. 

We stumbled upon the other side of this site from a few days ago where some of the Roman artifacts were not pilfered or layered over by later civilizations. This town is no different from places in Israel and throughout the Mediterranean where each succeeding civilization built over the remains of the last.  

This area has been excavated and preserved to show what was here before. 

This is a statue of Claude. Who was Claude you might ask but without a further explanation (not even in French) who knows. His likeness and name live on but his story is lost. 

Well we killed enough time getting here and walking about that the lunch hour was upon us. This outdoor restaurant on the central square provided enough warmth and protection from the wind to make this outdoor dining experience pleasant  

As a change of pace I ordered the fish and frites...

And Kim relied on the French staple - a burger "blue" (rare). Whoa that is a lot of frites. Next time we will split the burger and just order a side of frites. That way we can be just like all the other diners around us and finish all the food on our plates and not leave with a "dogless" doggie bag. Take away is not common so getting the remains wrapped to go can be challenging. No sense asking for a "to go" box even if we knew how to say it in French. Plastic wrap will have to do when foil is nowhere to be found. 

Roman Ruins and Malaucene Revisted

Repeating rides is becoming a more common practice when a well balanced route makes its debut. Today was a replay of the first ride we did after arriving here in Provence. The perfect combination of distance, elevation gained, and manageable grades is difficult to achieve especially when we want to start and end at home, and stay off very busy roads. After making a few adjustments from the last ride we were confident we reached our goal and were not disappointed. 

Rerouting from the start bypassed some of the steeper grades and gravel laden pavement at the expense of covering more miles on the D977 - a busy road with ample shoulders. Good choice since we arrived a Vaison less fatigued then the last time. 

Our stop in Vaison La Romaine was brief even though it was market day. We will return next Tuesday by car so we have ample time to wander around this ancient town and check out all the wares. We pressed on to Malaucene for our coffee stop. Man can not live by bread alone so Kim purchased a breakfast pastry. The bread was good but pastry not so much. Every one can not be a winner. 

Our real goal was to get our favorite seeded (cereal) bread from the Boulangerie in the "V" town. This photo was essential to make a size comparison with the cereal bread we coveted in Saint Julian last year in the Dordogne. Need to get out the bread measuring stick to determine the winner. 

We decided on a charcuterie lunch to compliment our favorite baguette. Puts routine sandwiches to shame.  

And while we were in the neighborhood could not resist these two gems for our evening desert. 

Rain Delay - Again

 Another dreary day with light rain and very wet roads. Since we had no where specific to go we were not looking forward to a day inside. Cycling is cumulative, the more you do it the more you want to do it. So, after four continuous weeks of riding our bodies and minds were not willing to succumb. 

By mid morning the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to break thorough the sky. At 11 (very late start for us) we were on our bikes for an abbreviated ride around the vineyards keeping the mileage and climbs to a minimum.  

After several rides skirting around the vines Kim felt compelled to sample the harvest. Since this field was already harvested the only bunch in the bunch she could find was shriveled and tart.  

A very busy sign post but the little one at the bottom was all we needed. 

Along the way we turned off the main road and joined this "rails to trails" paved cycleway. We headed left so we could get a photo of the old train station (gare). We have already planned another ride that will take us directly to the cycleway so we can ride it one way toward Carpentras and the other way for as many miles as we wish to go. 

The "old" train station. A very modest affair but sure it served its purpose as the train came rumbling through.

This town wins today's prize for the most decorative welcome sign. Actually is was a gem as we soon found out. 

The fortified inner town was surrounded by an intact security wall. Very impressive.  

As is the person with the bike at the gate under the breast cancer awareness symbol. No time to explore beyond the inner wall. 

But enough time for a coffee at its base. 

Although we limited ourselves to just a "cafe double", the name was "Bowl and Burger".  Kim was smitten when she went inside and succumbed to the smell of burgers and frites. Need to find our way back here for lunch. 

Looks like an old wine pressing barrel that is purely ornamental  More modern devices make for easier crushing and cleaner feet. 

This wayward bird is a turkey, which are somewhat strangers in this part of the world. Must be a pet who is safe from the Thanksgiving table - they don't celebrate here. Most farmed turkeys are exported to England. Have never seen it on a menu or for sale at the market. 

Bedoin - Out and Back - All the Way

Today we decided to make a second attempt to reach Bedoin. The wind gods moved on and a beautiful, calm, chilly sunny day appeared. For the most part we retraced our route from yesterday but eliminated some of the detours off the main road to avoid the poor pavement and loose gravel. The Sunday traffic was a bit heavier but a national law requires trucks to stay off the roads, which are more intimidating than the locals tooling around in their high powered sports cars. Also a popular day for motorcyclist giving their machines a workout.  

Since our direct route followed the main roads it was easy to navigate using the signs. We stayed in Mazan back in 2016 but did not make a return visit once the roads diverged. It was not that impressive so not worth the extra mileage. 

Back up the hill to the "C" town (since our French pronunciations leave a lot to be desired we just refer to each town by the first letter). Caromb was the turn around point on yesterday's attempt but today we rode on by. Too early for coffee.  

A strategically placed bench was an ideal spot to shed clothes as the sun erased the morning chill. 

Almost there. The additional 22 KM to to the summit is a "ride too far". We will save that for another day.

The Mount Ventoux summit is capped by a prominent tower and stands out since the upper part is all rock and scree. This is the holy grail as it often appears in one of the stages of the Tour de France. Its most recent appearance incorporated three ascents on each of the individual routes to the top. It is not that high by Rocky Mountain standards with the summit elevation around 6000 feet, 1800 feet lower than our house in Vail. 

Not that you need a reminder but there are signs everywhere just in case you missed the significance. In addition to climbing to the summit there are numerous cyclists swarming around the base on the secondary roads, us included. Sunday was no exception. 

On our way into town we passed the coffee spot from our last trip but insisted on the place we had these outrageous crepes on the last trip. This time we settled on the bread and breakfast pastry we picked up along the way. The Valrhona chocolates added a nice touch. 

This town was between us and home but fortunately there was a bike path around the base avoiding a substantial up and over climb. Enough is enough. 

The official park sign not that you did not already know where you were and why you are here. 

Relaxing by the pool was in order as the warm sunny afternoon compelled us. I decided to cool my heals, then my toes, then my ankles, then lower calves in the chilly water. A fully submerged dip was not a consideration but is essential during the heat of summer. Almost all the places around here have pools as rentals would be reduced sharply without one. The house is also air conditioned although not necessary this time of year. 

Bedoin - Out and Back

We originally planned a more ambitious ride for today around the Gorges Nesque but the weather gods had other plans. There is a reason they put Mount Venteux in this part of France- which translates to "windy mountain". The forecast was winds 19 MPH gusting to 39 MPH so a more conservative alternative was in order. 

Although the ride to Bedoin at the base of Mount Venteux was moderate and only 30 miles out and back the uphill headwinds proved to be a real %^&** (rhymes with itch). After 12 miles we decided enough was enough and decided to head back bucking the wind every inch. 

Our turnaround town was a great spot for a much needed coffee break and the more modest breakfast pastry we picked up along the way. We will attempt this scenic ride again once the winds turn into a mild breeze.  

No sense prolonging the ride to stop for photos but this pomegranate tree was in full bloom and a rare sight. It is fun to see and identify the plants and trees along the way, especially ones we don't often encounter.  

 

Olive trees are everywhere in this region much like the California wine country and other places grapes grow. These green olives are ripe for picking. 

Flat Ride Followed by Hilltop Lunch

For a change of pace and relief from our ride to Malaucene we opted for a leisurely ride through the Rhone valley. Vineyards dominated the landscape which always makes for a appealing scene.  On our way out of Sablet we took a detour into town for the first of our daily breads. Biking without a bread in your pack it tempting fate should you come up empty handed when time for a "bread snack". 

As with all self designed routes it is sometimes difficult to determine the quality of the roads depicted in the route planning software. I routed us off a paved road onto a muddy beaten path for a short jog. Since it rained our tires and shoes were encrusted with the sticky stuff which required a stop to get back to rideable condition. Fortunately it was only a short segment where pavement gave way to gravel.  

A memorial plaque commemorating American airmen who crashed in this field in 1944. We have come across many similar commemorations throughout our extensive riding in France. Some are for allied forces and others resistance fighters who were killed fighting for their freedom.  

We have seen these statues elsewhere in France but the female version was new gender appropriate compliment to the male versions normally displayed 

This Ken and Barbie duo are on opposite ends of the crosswalk waiting for a chance to get to know each other better. 

On of the many water crossings that crisscross the Rhone valley floor.  

This chocolate shop is not a UNESCO world heritage sight, but maybe it should be. Just a photo of the sign but no window shopping or browsing.

My route planning website assured me that this "footbridge" would get us from one side to the other but we have been led astray more than once. 

This pedestrian tunnel was the real deal. No way a traditional railroad crossing would have worked considering the frequency of trains whizzing by overhead. 

What works for the mister often works for the misses.

Midway through the ride at the farthest point we pulled into this town in search of a Tabac. This place was also a Vietnamese restaurant - the first one we have seen in France. After the coffee arrived we broke out the bread making for a lighter snack today. 

The proprietor appeared moments later with a plate of sliced prosciutto and a few moments later a package of butter for a complete repast. Even though this Vietnamese couple were probably not born here they were So French! 

Even though "velo routes" are not always our preferred option this one proved a winner.

Especially the overpass exclusively for cyclists and pedestrians. 

We skirted around the city of Orange after our coffee stop in Piolenc. The congestion and traffic made this our least  favorite section. Gladly, we missed the heart of town staying in the outer suburbs. 

Heading back into familiar territory and our hilltop lunch. 

The climb to the town of Gigondas required all the remaining strength we could muster. We were not disappointed relaxing on this patio dining area and ordered some of out favorite dishes... duck over a salad for Kim and steak prepared "bleu" (very rare) for me. With a steep downhill to the main road and about 2 miles home we knew that our indulgence would not override our ability to make it home. 

Sablet - home sweet home. 

Offsetting our heavy midday meal a lighter dinner was in order. Tonight's charcuterie included the traditional pate and cheese plus a tongue terrine (which was a great and first time find). A compliment of olives and abundance of bread made the end of day meal a perfect finish to an outstanding day.