Return to Bedoin

 

Domaine Des Girasols

 Yesterday we made a quick trip to the market in Vaison. This would be our last food run that will tie us over for the remainder of our stay in Provence. Waiting on the checkout line we were conversing when this young gentleman in front of us asked if we were American. Not sure what was the give away but we home in on english speakers among the din of French. We started to chat and found out that he divided his time between the US and France and was currently working at a winery started by his grandparents fifty years ago. We exchanged information along with the location of his winery, Since it was along our planned flat vineyard ride for tomorrow he suggested that we stop by for a tasting. Not our normal routine but worth consideration. 

Lavender is a common crop in Provence so this field that was past its prime was worth a photo. Unfortunately the lavender colored fields reach their peak earlier in the fall. 

No self respecting wine region will always have a symbol advertising their wares in the hopes of drawing tourists in for a tasting and purchase. 

This was the first sign we saw of Julian's winery so we knew we were on the right track. It sits on a knowl with a steep climb up to the winery. 

We parked our bikes and Julian showed us to the tasting room. 

A bottle of one of their premium offerings. 

Julian insisted on pouring a few of his favorite picks. With more than a handful of miles back home Kim has a sip of each but had enough restraint to insure a safe ride back. 

Julian gave us his origin story which started with his mother who was born in Resteau but sent to the California wine country to expand her wine making education before taking over the reign of the family business. While working for Joseph Phelps in Napa she met Julian's father who was also learning the wine business from the bottom up. After marrying they moved back to Provence where Julian and his younger sister were born. They returned to California where Julian went to high school and perfected his English. Later on he returned to the winery to run the manual operations while his parents continued to handle the business end. Although Julian spends most of his time in France he continues to visit the states to connect with friends and spend time with his sister who is a sommelier in the New York area. 

Fortunately the last few miles were negotiated without incident ending a very interesting and rewarding day. Having exchanged contact information we invited Julian to stop by Vail on one of his trips to the states. He is a skier but has to schedule his time away when the call of harvesting and pruning it not all consuming.  

The Day After - Rain and Wind

After the 50+ MPH winds the Ventoux took a rest making way for torrential overnight rains. We decided to head south with the wind at our backs and take a leisurely jaunt along the cycleway (aka old rail bed). For a change of pace we headed off the main road along this paved detour. Not a great idea since the accumulated rainfall made for some mucky going.

There was enough pavement along the edge to avoid wading but not without some muddy sections. The man walking along was not following us but we managed to pass each other several times when we stopped to shed clothing as the temperatures rose.

While I straddled my bike (could not find a spot to dismount) she decided to walk along with her wheels in the water so her feet could stay dry. We shoes does not make for a pleasant ride. 

Once we joined the bike path we had so decide to head toward Orange or Carpentras. A gent was able to explain that the path was paved in both directions but we opted to head toward Carpentras.

We ducked off the path for a few kilometers to a town center to find a coffee spot. Fortunately Kim snagged the goodies back in the "V" town so two coffees later we were on our way back to the path to continue raking up the miles. Hoping to cover 30+ miles today we kept going toward Orange before the required turnaround point based on our quick calculation. 

Amazing how dry creek beds come alive after a night of intense rain. 

The route back was north and heading straight into the winds. Fortunately the climbs were minimal so severe exhaustion did not set in. We passed this sign where "Les Cabanons" provided housing for the migrant farm workers in a time long forgotten. 

With our riding day behind us we decided to make a quick trip to the market to get all the food we will tie us over until we leave Provence next Tuesday. Fortunately this market has a wonderful bakery department where Kim could not resist these delicacies. Sufficient counterpoint to the dinner basics needed to get us through. 

 

Sun, Warmth, and WIND, WIND, WIND!

Even for these intrepid cyclists there are limits to riding in adverse conditions. With winds gusting to 50+ MPH we decided that "no riding" was the safest bet. Often when passing a line of trees or buildings the wind goes from tolerable to insane, especially a crosswind which can knock you off the bike or push you into the driving lane and oncoming or passing traffic. 

After spending most of the day inside we needed some exercise so we opted for a walk into Sablet and up to the top of the hill - all hilltop towns have one. 

A stroll around the gardens and 

past the church. Every town has at least one of these too.

The clock and bell tower. 

Fortunately the wind became more manageable for the next day's ride. Today we decided on the Malaucene ride but in a reverse counter clockwise direction. To add to the challenge we decided to conquer Barroux which was a quieter but steeper route. 

We were hoping to make this our coffee stop but stymied since the only cafe was closed. Will try again on another day.  

The chateau was too much of a climb so we settled for a long distance photo. 

A better shot from a different angle which will have to suffice. 

Since the ride was a repeat of a previous ride there was no reason to take duplicate photos but this was one that we screamed by the last time. We think it was a man and a woman but it is anybody's guess. 

We arrived back in Sablet at lunch time. Our intention was to try the restaurant in Seguret but bailed not wanting to scale the killer hill to the chateau. We figured a burger is a burger, frites are frites, and felt compelled to support the local businesses. 

The Route Less Traveled

Due to the forecasted higher than desirable winds we plotted a route through the vineyards to the west. We started with a flatter course to Vaison avoiding the killer climbs of past rides. 

Cycling is big in France and host to the granddaddy of the racing circuit - Tour de France. Like everywhere they start them young as this "happy camper" demonstrated. He is beaming with his colorful helmet as he headed into centre ville with mom. 

This town is a popular destination for tourists and locals featuring lots to look at, including this sculpture at the entrance of the local park.

Kim couldn't resist taking a photo of this medallion decorating one of the many ancient stone walls surrounding the city. 

Bike leaning on a tree, which is an appropriate title of this photo. Not much else to say.

We got to explore many towns we bypassed on earlier rides. Buisson looks like a good destination for a coffee stop, and of course it sits on the top of a hill. Who could imagine why they would build up there?

The town appeared to be deserted but discovered that they were serving in the square outside the walled fortress. Nothing special except for the first palmier on this trip. Not sure why we haven't seen them before but a good find. The other pastry was not bad either. Got to love the Patisserie in Vaison La Romaine. 

Stone walls appear formidable especially for attacking armies a millennium ago. Seems quaint by modern standards but daunting if all you have are swords and arrows.  

Cycling around towns is preferable to the more strenuous up and over approach. Seeing from afar was sufficient repeating our common refrain - "We have been to a town"

There goes Alan screaming past this town sign after having missed a critical turn which added too many unnecessary miles to our 30+ mile ride. Following the route on my biking computer is not always easy so missed turns happen way too often. I have revised this route should we decide to do it again. 

 

To Market, To Market, To Buy A ???

 After six days of riding we decided to take the day off and do a "drive about". Our first destination was the city of Orange. Thursday is market day which was an incentive to make this pick. 

It should not be a surprise to know that the Romans were here. They did get around in this area and fulfilled their compulsion to build baby build. 

They left behind this coliseum style structure which is closer to an amphitheater than fighting arena. It still operates as an open air theater but was not open for a tour of the interior. 

It is vital that when you go to market you have a mission. As in past visits Kim wanted to purchase some lightweight scarves which are inexpensive and easy to pack for the trip back home. Of course this expansive market space covering the interior of the town offered the traditional variety of food, and inedible fare seem at most flea markets in the states.  

Besides needing a day off from riding the wind was predicted to be howling - and it did not disappoint. We were able to find a partly sunny spot that was well protected to partake in our morning ritual. Notice the warmer jacket which was needed on this chilly windy day. 

The morning pastry was a winner. Flakey dough combined with an excessive amount of chocolate. Of course it was preceded by hunk of bread as an starter.  

Having OD'd on the market and way too early for lunch we decided to move along to another bastion of Roman ruins - Vaison La Romaine. 

We stumbled upon the other side of this site from a few days ago where some of the Roman artifacts were not pilfered or layered over by later civilizations. This town is no different from places in Israel and throughout the Mediterranean where each succeeding civilization built over the remains of the last.  

This area has been excavated and preserved to show what was here before. 

This is a statue of Claude. Who was Claude you might ask but without a further explanation (not even in French) who knows. His likeness and name live on but his story is lost. 

Well we killed enough time getting here and walking about that the lunch hour was upon us. This outdoor restaurant on the central square provided enough warmth and protection from the wind to make this outdoor dining experience pleasant  

As a change of pace I ordered the fish and frites...

And Kim relied on the French staple - a burger "blue" (rare). Whoa that is a lot of frites. Next time we will split the burger and just order a side of frites. That way we can be just like all the other diners around us and finish all the food on our plates and not leave with a "dogless" doggie bag. Take away is not common so getting the remains wrapped to go can be challenging. No sense asking for a "to go" box even if we knew how to say it in French. Plastic wrap will have to do when foil is nowhere to be found. 

Roman Ruins and Malaucene Revisted

Repeating rides is becoming a more common practice when a well balanced route makes its debut. Today was a replay of the first ride we did after arriving here in Provence. The perfect combination of distance, elevation gained, and manageable grades is difficult to achieve especially when we want to start and end at home, and stay off very busy roads. After making a few adjustments from the last ride we were confident we reached our goal and were not disappointed. 

Rerouting from the start bypassed some of the steeper grades and gravel laden pavement at the expense of covering more miles on the D977 - a busy road with ample shoulders. Good choice since we arrived a Vaison less fatigued then the last time. 

Our stop in Vaison La Romaine was brief even though it was market day. We will return next Tuesday by car so we have ample time to wander around this ancient town and check out all the wares. We pressed on to Malaucene for our coffee stop. Man can not live by bread alone so Kim purchased a breakfast pastry. The bread was good but pastry not so much. Every one can not be a winner. 

Our real goal was to get our favorite seeded (cereal) bread from the Boulangerie in the "V" town. This photo was essential to make a size comparison with the cereal bread we coveted in Saint Julian last year in the Dordogne. Need to get out the bread measuring stick to determine the winner. 

We decided on a charcuterie lunch to compliment our favorite baguette. Puts routine sandwiches to shame.  

And while we were in the neighborhood could not resist these two gems for our evening desert.