A few rides back we were cruising the cliffside town of La Roque nestled between the cliff and Dordogne river. It is a very popular tourist destination as the crowds and cars reflect. Part way through town I passed an outside cafe patio with two viper red Trek Domane bikes leaning against the wall. Since they are of a similar vintage as our bikes I stopped to admire them and casually blurted out "nice bikes" in English. To my surprise the dining couple responded in British English so a conversation was born. My interest started with whether they were familiar with the local rides but evolved into the fact that they divide their time between Bristol, England and the hilltop village of Domme, a few kilometers up river.
After a few minutes of conversing across the garden wall Kim caught up and pulled out our map to get some cycling suggestions. We exchanged some of our "origin stories" and contact information and an invite to see their house nestled into the ramparts of this ancient fortress. Domme started life as a strategic fortress and castle dating back to the crusades then evolved into a quaint French village when the locals dismantled the castle and repurposed the stones into houses, shops, and compulsory houses of worship (aka churches).
Our new friends Ali (short for Alison) and Rob (short for Rob) suggested that we come by for a house tour and local lunch on Thursday since they were returning to England on Saturday. We decided to combine a ride terminating with a long climb up to Domme. For those who follow "The Amazing Race" the esplanade overlooking the valley referred to as the "Panorama" was a pit stop on a recent season.
This banner caught our eye which was at the entrance to a camping area call the frog something.
We decided that on this return visit we would stop for our coffee and pastry before tackling the up and over route over the intervening hill climb (or as Ali refers to them as lumpy sections).
Kim could not resist a photo of this purple mail box...
and similarly colored flower.
Ali also mentioned that we should make a quick stop to look at this ancient stone church.
The road "up and over" acknowledged as a biking route did not mention the steep grades (14%+), rugged pavement, moss covered sections, and brake gripping downhills. Once on the other side the pavement was more civilized although still quiet, tree lined, and mostly devoid of cars. The worst was behind us...
So on to the climb to Domme which was 8% for the first half and a measly 5% to the top.
Kim was first to reach the summit and through the remnants of the fortress gates.
A quick turn past the rampart and we arrived at the Jones getaway.
Ali has been visiting this area since childhood staying in Castelnaud. When they decided on a Dordogne retreat they insisted on a view, and what a view it is. The house is old but the pool and surrounding gardens are their creations.
A selfie captured the group...
and photo of Ali showing off the view.
Lunch was at a favorite restaurant "around the corner" with some of our favorite French delights. Rob had a beer or two but we stuck with mineral water knowing that we still has more than five miles back home.
This is the oldest building in the remade town (much nicer than the medieval castle). Besides the surviving fortress walls are the dungeon where the "nights templar" (see The Da Vinci Code for more details) were imprisoned upon their return from the crusades.
Out the gates, down the hill, and an easy ride home.
This sign in their house reflects our sentiments. What a great day with our new found friends! Already planning our return visit next year, but maybe on our new e-bikes.
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