Rain, Rain, Go Away!

Friday, September 6, 2024

After a lovely ride yesterday gloom and doom has set in, in the form of dense fog and intermittent rain. Our friend Chris Everson confirmed that this has been an unusually damp year here in the Dordogne valley - lucky us. 

On the brighter side is that our apartment is just a short walk down the hill to the Boulangerie, and the fresh croissants, pastries, and breads of our dreams. 

With the weather looking quite iffy we opted to drive to the hill top town of Pays-De-Belves. It got us out on the road to scout a potential bike route to assess the quality of the roads and steepness of the climbs. So, if the weather ever clears we will retrace our drive along this scenic path. 

The town or village (hard to know when one becomes the other) was very typical. An intown hospital is unusual as the sign reveals. There was some historical photos from the 20th century but didn't try to decipher the significance.  

The  narrow archway led to the inner center.

Centre Ville had a covered market space but since it was not market day just an empty space.

Since it was lunch time it was hard to pass up the local gyro place with Shawarmas on the menu. Not typical French cuisine but one of our favorites, and don't forget the Frites which go with anything.

Dinner was out with our new friends Tony and Natasha who met us at a restaurant a hop and skip from our front door. No food photos this time.

Saturday, September 7, 2024

Today we headed down to Daglan which is 10 KM (~6 Miles) from Castelnaud. We met Darlene and Shaun last year through their YouTube video channel where they documented their relocation from their native Brisbane, Australia almost two years ago. 

Here is the writeup from last year's blog:

In planning for this trip to France I perused YouTube extensively for videos about France, in particular, travelogues to the areas we plan to visit. There is a channel I followed posted by Darlene Lavett about her relocation from Brisbane, Australia to the Dordogne region of France. Darlene and Shaun decided that they needed to write the next chapter in their young lives (50 and 57 respectively) which we can personally relate (the start of our African adventures). They purchased a property in Daglan with extensive main and out buildings on an expansive plot of land walking distance to Centre Ville. This is a passionate labor of love which we can also relate to in our younger years. Although the house and furnishings were livable they decided to make it their own creation. Not something we would consider at our stage in life but what we might have done back in our fifties. Along with their physical commitment to making it their future home they are also committed to learning the language and assimilating into this rural French community. I have viewed many similar stories of "ex pats" pursuing a new life in France. There are pockets of them throughout rural France and within the major cities, but they are predominately English speaking islands within the sea of native born French. 

I contacted Darlene and asked if we could visit them and tour their property, and in the French style we brought two bottles of Champagne to lubricate our friendship. Their story is amazing. Having left their home half a world away to pursue their "new beginning". We had more things to talk about than time would permit but hopefully this will be the "start of a beautiful friendship" (Humphrey Bogart to Claude Raines in the last scene in the movie Casablanca). 

Alan, Kim, Darlene & Shaun

END OF 2023 BLOG ENTRY

We wanted to tour Darlene's and Shaun's house again and inspect the renovations since we first met last year. The place looked great (especially the kitchen) but still an ongoing work in progress. They have the energy and passion needed for their ambitious project, something we might have considered in our earlier life having built two house and renovated a third long before we hit our 50's. In our 70's changing a light bulb requires extensive planning, a lot of energy, and a substantial nap. 

Darlene and Shaun introduced us to a casual restaurant near our place for a late lunch. Nothing out of the ordinary but did I mention the frites? 

After driving back to Daglan Darlene wanted to show off her new art gallery in a rented room in the church. She is very talented and can showcase her artwork for sale to the endless flow of tourists who pass this way.

Darlene, Kim and pooch in front of some of her pieces. Her painting of the town scape now graces the postcard below. 

Sunday, September 8, 2024

This was a busy day for us capping a weekend of socializing with our local friends. We started the day with coffee and pastries with Tony and Natasha at their new place up the hill from where we are staying. 

We connected with them through a YouTube video (detect a pattern?) where they were interviewed by a French based relocation company that assist expat "want to be's" who want to relocate from their country of origin to France. Since we have no interest in making France our home I watch them to gather ideas on what to see and do while we are in country. Ironically Tony and Natasha purchased a property a few kilometers from our AirBNB and their web site mentions places to see and eat at in the area, which is a great find. 

Their expansive property incorporated a partially finished stone house (basically the exterior shell) and guest cottage which they rent as an AirBNB while they undertake the mammoth task of completing the interior into a palatial retreat with eight bedrooms and spacious living area. Once completed it will be a grandiose getaway. Since we already had a lunch commitment we cut our visit short but plan to get together again for lunch or dinner before leaving the Dordogne. 

On to our lunch with Su and Chris Everson which was only a short drive away.   

Another intriguing backstory dating to our time in Africa in 2007. Scott Pelley is a principle correspondent on the CBS news magazine "60 Minutes". We met him and his wife Jane on our first African safari in Tanzania in 1993 and maintained our close friendship for the past thirty plus years. In 2007 Scott was celebrating his 50th birthday with Jane planning the festivities outside of Cape Town, South Africa. Since we were in the neighborhood we reworked our volunteering calendar to join Scott, Jane, et. al. in the wine region of Franschhoek outside Cape Town. 

Turns out that Chris and Su are both native South Africans and at the time lived and operated a wine farm in the local area. Chris' day job is a videographer for CBS and he linked up with Scott for 60 Minute's coverage in Iraq. Ever since their first engagement Chris has been filming all of Scott's international stories (and many famous segments with the other correspondents) in places too numerous to list. Through twists of fate Chris and Su eventually sold the farm and permanently relocated to the Dordogne area of France.   

Even though our first meeting was brief we have corresponded with them over the years and planned to get reacquainted when visiting the Dordogne. Last year was a near miss due to a 60 Minutes assignment  but we were determined to make our visit a reality this year. 

A casual lunch was the ideal gathering at their house only a short drive from our AirBNB. Midday meals are the best way to avoid night driving on the narrow, windy roads and opportunity to indulge in a glass or two of bubbly.

Catching up on the seventeen intervening years and hearing Chris' amazing stories of life on the road made for a long and enjoyable afternoon in the typical French tradition. Before our stay here is over we hope to continue our conversations over another leisurely lunch or dinner. 

We love France and especially the Dordogne valley, but the greatest reward is making new friends and visiting with old ones while visiting the area.